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DINING IN
Portugal
in a bowl
Caldo verde (literally, green soup) is to portugal what gazpacho
is to spain, menudo is to Mexico and borscht is to Russia.
It originated in Portugal’s far north but is now found all over, particularly in the Algarve, along the southern coast. While you can order it in any restaurant, it’s easily replicated in even the simplest kitchen.
Caldo verde takes its colour from the dark-hued Galician cabbage.The
ingredients are easy to find, especially at the covered market, dating back to
1908, in the inland town of Loulé. Beyond a heavy pot, all you really need is a sharp knife and a skillet. To cut the greens filament-thin, first carve away the tough stems, then stack a half-dozen or so leaves, roll them into a tight cylinder and slice crosswise. If you want, save the olive oil the sausage was crisped in and use it to fry the bread slices. These will nearly melt into the soup, enriching it while leaving its Algarve identity intact.
CAldO VERdE
4 tbsp. olive oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium onion, finely chopped
11⁄2 tsp. coarse sea salt (or more)
500g. Yukon Gold potatoes (about 3), peeled and thinly sliced 250g. Galician cabbage, kale or mustard greens, julienned 250g. Portuguese chouriço (or Spanish chorizo), sliced
4 slices sturdy Portuguese bread
Heat 3 tbsp. oil in a pot over medium heat. Add garlic, onion and 1 tsp. of salt. Sauté until soft, about 10 min. Add potatoes and 1⁄2 tsp. salt and sauté 5 min., turning slices often. Stir in 6 cups water, bring to a boil, then reduce heat, cover and simmer until potatoes are soft. Remove from heat and mash well.
Heat 1 tbsp. oil in a skillet and sauté sausage until browned. Drain on paper towel. Lay the bread in the hot fat and fry until toasted.
Just before serving, return pot to medium heat, add chouriço and simmer 5 min. Add greens and cook just until wilted, about 3 min. Ladle into soup bowls; garnish with the bread. Serves 4.
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