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UP AND DOWN: (top to bottom) Take the cable car to the top of Sugarloaf mountain and behold one of the worlds great views. The sun may go down but Rio just keeps going, this city has plenty to see and do day and night - Flamengo Beach.
And last but not least is Praia do Futuro, considered the best beach for swimming
and less built up than the other beaches.
It’s also famous for its barracas (traditional beach restaurants), which are right on the sand. Some of these have even expanded into bigger bars with music stages and swimming pools! Depending on what you’re after – whether its peace and total tranquility in a crowd-free postcard paradise, or the chance to buy a bracelet and an ice cream from a wandering vendor when you feel like it – there’s a beach for everyone.
After a long day sunning yourself on the sand, one of the best things to do is to
take advantage of the abundance of fresh seafood, especially the crab. For the best
of the bunch, head to Praia do Futuro and choose from one of the many barracas (rustic restaurants) along the beachfront, all serving crab in a delicious sauce with some seriously spectacular views of kitesurfers, windsurfers and lots of attractive people in swimwear. Don’t forget to try asado (grilled red snapper) with salad too. It’s a local favourite and you’ll soon see why.
From there, take an evening trip to Fortaleza’s most bohemian live venue.
The buzzing Café Pagliuca offers jazz on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays, tango on Thursdays and bossa jazz on Saturday, and each show starts at 9pm. If you’re a bit low on cash, it helps to remember there’s
a free caipirinha with your feijoada (bean stew) on Saturdays from noon. So there’s no excuse not to get down there.
If you’re after a quieter side of the city, history buffs will enjoy a couple of
hours spent perusing the exhibits of the Museu do Ceará – all dedicated to the history and anthropology of Ceará State in one interesting little museum. You’ll find it housed in the former Assembléia Provincial (Provincial Assembly Building), so head off early and then entertain your fellow travellers with your impressive yet mysterious knowledge of the region.
And if you’re lucky enough to be in Fortaleza on a Friday or Saturday night, make sure you take in a show at the Teatro José de Alencar. The impressive building dates back to 1910 and remains a hybrid of Art Nouveau and classical architecture, constructed with imported cast-iron sections from Scotland.
And you can’t leave Brazil without trying the samba. Brazilians love it and its beats will be heard from every bar and club in the country, as well as on the streets. Get yourself down to a school run by famous samba dancers such as Carlinhos de Jesus, Marcelo Chocolate or Jimmy de Oliveira and at night take your dancing shoes
to a music club, such as the lively Rio Scenarium in Lapa. You’ll be stepping out like a pro in no time.
GETTING TO GRIPS WITH FABULOUS FORTALEZA
With sizzling beaches and a party atmosphere, it’s no surprise that many people flock north to Fortaleza when they’re done with the stifling heat and expense of Rio de Janeiro. Fortaleza‘s permanent settlers date back to the 17th century, when the Dutch fell out with the Portuguese over the undeniably attractive territory. In spite of it being one of smallest states in Brazil, the Ceará region boasts one
of the longest coastlines in the country and Fortaleza itself has some of the best urban beaches in Brazil.
Merieles is conveniently located next to the Feirinha de Artesanato (handicraft fair) and is a great stretch if you fancy a walk or even a jog along the water, while Iracema is a hive of activity in the evenings thanks to the surrounding restaurants and nightclubs. It also boasts the Ponte dos Ingleses (Bridge of the Englishmen) – the perfect spot for a nighttime stroll.
Mucuripe is actually just a continuation of Meireles, but is the place to go to
get a glimpse of the traditional fishing culture of the area. Head down to the southern end of the beach towards the fish market to see fishermen taking their jangadas (traditional fishing boats) out to sea and returning to the beach – a photo opportunity not to be missed!
28 WINTER 2013