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The refuge’s other wildlife celebrities may be the crocodiles and flamingos, but also look out for endemic species, such as the playful coati (in the raccoon family) and emerald hummingbirds. Travellers can take advantage of the park’s free boat lagoon tour, or climb the stairs, all 131 of them, of the 75 year old lighthouse for broad vistas.
Another surprising sanctuary is the Cozumel Country Club (Carr. Costera Norte km 6.5; 52-987-872-9570; clubcorp. com; bird-watching, $53; golf, $106), a challenging 18 hole course that’s also Audubon certified. A biologist leads bird watching excursions at 6am on request, but you won’t need your binoculars to see crocs and enormous orange iguanas sunning themselves on the greens and fairways.
The East Side
Occasional high winds and rough waters make it difficult to build permanent structures on Cozumel’s east coast, making for a near empty serene waterfront. To get there you can rent a moped or convertible at Isis (181 N. 5a Ave., between Second and Fourth Sts.; 52-987-872-3367; rentadoraisis. com.mx) and coast along Carr. Transverse the main highway which cuts through the middle of the island. Ancient history buffs should make a detour at San Gervasio (52-914-872-0093; cozumelparks.com; admission, $9), a collection of Maya ruins surrounded by thick jungle in the island’s interior. These structures are modest compared with the mainland’s Chichén Itza or Coba but are still enchanting thanks to the tales of Ixchel, the goddess of fertility, to whom they are dedicated.
The road along the coast is flanked with low slung palm trees and deep blue waters. There are a handful of restaurants, all
of which have equally impressive views, though some are tourist traps with high prices. Surprisingly, the Little Liquor Bar (Carr. Costera Oriental km 30; no phone), is owned by a local who goes by the name of Luis. With only a few inviting hammocks and painted wooden tables, the bar may
be the ocean side version of a hole in the wall, but Luis makes expert cocktails with his sharp knife and fruit basket brimming with limes and coconuts. You can order a michelada (that classic Mexican mixture
of fresh lime juice, hot sauce and beer), orif you like Bloody Marys—his knockout version, with beer, Clamato, celery and oregano.
For lunch, grab a table in the sand at El Pescador (Carr. Costera Oriental km 49; 52-987-103-5812; elpescadorczm.com; lunch for two, $27) for fish tacos. Flaky white mero is grilled with garlic and lime, then topped with sweet onions and cilantro, wrapped in flour tortillas and served with guacamole.
Around Town
Explore Cozumel’s main city, San Miguel in the evenings when cruise ships have reeled in their footbridges and streets
are particularly quiet. The majority of
the island’s shops, on and off the main boulevard, sell little more than T shirts and shot glasses. These are all emblazoned with Cozumel in neon colors, in case you forget where you are, but there are a few exceptions. While Los Cinco Soles (Rafael E. Melgar Ave. and N. Eighth St.; 52-987- 872-9004; loscincosoles.com) still caters to travelers (you’ll even find an outpost
in the Cancún airport), it’s also full of artisan goods from all over the country. The plaques explaining craft history and traditions add a welcome, old touch.
Everything is handmade at México a Mano (Rafael E. Melgar Ave. between Second and Fourth Sts.; 52-987-869-0140), a store with beautifully crafted works, such as table runners, woven baskets and carved statues that hail from Mexico’s Pacific states, like Michoacán and Guerrero.
Beach clubs, such as Isla Pasión (52-987- 872-5858; isla-pasion.com), accessible only by boat, are entertaining, but you’ll find a more sophisticated crowd at Hotel B (Carr. Playa San Juan km 2.5; 52-987-872-0300; hotelbcozumel.com). Daytime guest passes are around $21 - a chic Miami like property with breezy bungalows, a large infinity pool and an oceanfront hot tub.
Small Island, Big Flavors
You can usually judge a restaurant by
its laminated menu, but the promenade front Palmera’s (Rafael E. Melgar Ave. and Juárez and the main port; 52-987-872-0532; restaurantepalmeras.com; breakfast for two, $16), the oldest restaurant in town at 38 years, is an exception. For breakfast, pair
a cup of strong coffee and huevos rancheros with great people watching.
If you want to get off the main street, stroll a few blocks east along pastel row houses to Zermatt Bakery (Fifth Ave. and Fifth St.; no phone), where locals linger with cups of coffee and pan dulces, or sweet breads at charming outdoor café tables. Close by, the no frills Taquería El Sitio (Second St. between Fifth and 10th Aves.; no phone; lunch for two, $11) is a favourite spot among taxi drivers. Order the torta de camarón (shrimp sandwich) and load it up with tomato and cilantro salsa. Downtown’s Mercado Municipal (Adolfo Rosado Salas St. between 20th and 25th Aves.), a down
to earth covered market where farmers and
28 SEPTEMBER 2014
MAGIC MEXICO: (clockwise from above) Grab a cerveza, a sun lounge and just relax on the beach; Cozumel coastline stretches as far as the eye can see; you will go a long way to find water this clear and with cuter locals; The name says it all, ‘Almost Free’, the perfect place to pick up a Cuban Cigar; another perfect day for a beach walk; colourful souvenirs that could only be from Mexico and the ubiquitous Mexican snack, Guacamole.