Page 27 - Flipbook

EV Tip:
For a taste and smell of Pahang’s famous delicacy, salted fish and fish crackers (keropok), take a stroll down Jalan Besar, Kuantan’s main street.
full of fish from the sea. The shallow shore actually prevents many of the fishing boats from getting closer, so the haul is usu- ally transferred in rattan baskets from fishing boat to buffalo cart and onto processing plants in the village. It is not unusual to see these big-horned mammals half submerged in crashing waves, what more hauling a very heavy load onto shore. Berserah is a
fishing village best known for its salted anchovies and dried fish. A batik factory and some handicraft shops line the main road.
Forty-five kilometres north of Kuantan lies Cherating, a formerly sleepy beach hangout for travellers on the Southeast Asian back- packers’ trail. Cherating’s draw has always been
its sheltered, flat bay and wide casuarina-lined beaches that seem to extend up and down the coast forever. The inexpen- sive guesthouses, beach
restaurants and quaint wooden beach
huts set among coconut groves that
gave Cherating its claim to fame have
been around since the 1970s. Some
have gone through many makeovers
and their presence adds a touch of
bohemia to the village. Later develop-
ments are mostly upmarket with more
luxury accommodation suited to well-
heeled crowds. A handicraft village promotes classes in batik painting. There are even a few beach bars and pubs to chill out and relax.
Located off the main coast highway, most of the guesthouses, shops and restaurants are linked by a small lane parallel to the beach. And thankfully, most visitors like it that way. Apart from doing nothing while soaking in the sun, the more active can be seen out on the water swimming, windsurfing or parasailing. Low tide is extremely low, allowing for a stroll of at least 200m in the soft white sand to reach the sea and even further to get deep enough for a swim.
Ten kilometres further north is Chendor Beach, best known for its turtles. From July to September, green turtles and sometimes a giant leatherback come ashore to lay eggs. Although the nest- ing turtles and eggs are dwindling in numbers, in some years none are spotted, the beach’s isolation is its main draw.
Any trip into coastal Pahang requires a quick tour of Kuantan, even if the beach is your main goal. The townsfolk are quite friendly and laid back for an urban centre. It must be the slow pace of life and calming sea breezes. The town is compact and easily navigable on foot. The main road, conveniently named Jalan Besar (“big road”), is lined with old colonial era shophous- es, coffeeshops and well-stocked sundry stores for 400,000 folks. An imposing structure by the soccer field is the very blue, green and egg white Masjid Negeri or State Mosque along Jalan Makhota. Its four towering minarets are brightly lit at night and is quite a mesmerising sight.
Keropok (fried fish crackers) are popular buys for most visitors. Just as popular are sun-dried salted fish which have a pungent aroma and are an acquired taste. Do check out the shops
by the Pahang River. Near the old bus terminus are a host of souvenir stalls with rattan handicraft and possibly the best Ramli hamburger stand in the country as well as a local hawker centre by the riverside. For those who need air-conditioning, there are two mid-sized malls replete with western fast food outlets and cinemas on Jalan Tun Ismail, close by the express bus station and the newer part of town. Just follow the crawling traffic and you’ll get there!
Travel Tips
Best Time to Visit Year round or any month, except the year-end during the northeast monsoon season, typically from November to January. These months see moderate to heavy rain with the occasional flooding while beach activities grind to a halt and sea swimming can be dangerous.
Getting There Singapore is a three- to four-hour drive away via Johor Bharu, Kota Tinggi, Mersing and Pekan. From Johor Bahru, follow signs to Kota Tinggi and head north. From Kuala Lumpur, head east on the Karak Highway which leads to the new East Coast Highway. The town airport lies 15km inland.
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