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Clockwise from above: Panoramic view over Camara de Lobos. The stunning beach at Ribeira Brava town. The rugged, dramatic coastline of Marina da Quinta Grande.
MADEIRAN HISTORY
In a natural amphitheatre facing the blue Atlantic on the south coast of Madeira, capital Funchal (named for the fennel
– funcho – growing around its sheltered bay), is the main centre of activity. A great place to begin your holiday is Madeira Story Centre, opposite the cable-car station in the Old Town. Learn about Madeira’s history, culture and development at this interactive museum, taking you chronologically from its volcanic birth
14 million years ago; being claimed
by Portugal in the 1400s; through its
social development, maritime influence, industries, trade and strategic importance. On the terrace, enjoy views of Old Town via telescope, relax at the café and purchase Madeiran wares at the shop. Open 10-6 daily except Christmas Day.
There are many museums with diverse themes including wine, sugarcane and whale industries, contemporary art, sacred art, Christopher Colombus, furniture, porcelain and pottery, natural history, embroidery and traditional costumes. An uphill cobblestone climb from Finchal town centre brings you to great views and the Quinta das Cruzes (Manor Estate of the Crosses) museum. The early colonial manor built by second governor Joao
Goncalves da Camara has largely been destroyed, with the current building added after the 1748 earthquake. Acquired by
local authorities in 1952 to house antiques left by private collectors Cesar Gomes and Madeiran Czech citizen John Wetzler, the museum showcases old Madeiran social life, the etiquette and customs of noblemen in the 16th-19th centuries. 17th century chests and cabinets crafted from island timbers; 16th century Indo-Portuguese desks; and English and Portuguese furniture from the 17th to 19th century sit alongside early Madeiran clay works, fine Chinese porcelain and Portuguese glazed pottery, silver and filigree. The garden of endemic plants including orchids contains architectural pieces from the site’s early manor buildings. Open Tues-Sat 10-12.30 and 2-5.30. Sun 10-12.30. Closed public holidays.
Combine your Quinta das Cruzes excursion with nearby Convento de Santa Clara and Santa Clara Church founded
as a simple chapel in the late 1400s by Madeiran discoverer Joao Goncalves Zaroc, whose tomb is under the wooden floors of the church altar. The 15th century convent was a silent order of Franciscan nuns but
is now open to visitors. Reconstruction in the Baroque period is evident in the facade, gothic portal and the tower’s tiled Moorish
style cupola. Hispano-Arabic Mudejar floor tiles are arranged in beautiful geometric designs and stylised natural motifs; walls in the body of the church are panelled in tiles from the Baroque period; and the Chapel of Santa Domigos contains a pavement of 16th century Flemish tiles. No set visiting hours. Ring the bell to the right of the entrance.
For a blend of old and new Madeira, picturesque mustard-yellow waterfront Fortaleza de São Tiago (Fort Saint James) built in 1614 to protect the city from
pirate attack was repurposed to house the
Museu de Arte Contemporânea (Museum of Contemporary Art). Representing important Portuguese and Madeiran artists from the 1960s to today, the collection
is rotated in the venue’s limited space. Visitors enjoy the ocean-front walk to the fort; exploring warrens of rooms and staircases; sweeping views over Funchal harbour; and its good café. Open Mon-Sat 10-12.30 and 2-5.45pm. Closed Sunday and public holidays.
More than a day is needed to explore the historic sections of old Funchal Zona Velha (Old Town), with many buildings surviving from the wealthy sugar era of the 15th and 16th centuries. Most of Madeira’s built heritage is in Funichal’s three
ENDLESS VACATION 37