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Island for Two


Testing the Waters in Puerto Rico

San Juan’s Luis Muñoz Marín International Airport is just a four-hour flight from the East Coast (or five to six hours from the Midwest and Texas)—no passport required. Once you land, it’s a short taxi ride to popular areas of this capital city, such as Isla Verde and Condado.

The bright blue Caribbean waters will woo you into a beachfront stupor, but try not to lounge all day: Old Town San Juan is waiting. After wandering the cobblestoned streets, lined with pastel-hued townhouses, you’ll be within walking distance of the 16th-century Castillo San Felipe del Morro (501 Calle Norzagaray; 787-729-6777; admission, $7), one of the most iconic Spanish colonial fortresses in the Caribbean. The epic views of San Juan Bay are matched only by the cityscapes from Sage Steak Loft (55 Calle Aguadilla; 787-728-3535; dinner for two, $100*), a rooftop restaurant serving shareable plates, such as veal Parmesan croquettes and pork-belly paella.

For a bonding experience, consider heading out early one morning for Carabalí Rainforest Adventure Park (Puerto Rico Hwy. 3 km 32.4; 787-889-4954; one-hour ATV tours, $50 a person; additional $30 for a passenger), a 600-acre ranch in the foothills of El Yunque National Forest (much of which is still closed post–Hurricane Maria). You’ll cling to each other on an ATV ride through the ranch and then take a dip in the crystal clear Mameyes River. Afterward you can treat yourselves to a self-guided tour of El Mercado de Paseo Caribe (15 Av. Luis Muñoz Rivera; 787-721-2100), which brings together the best eats from across the island, including Fina and Nonna, two outposts from popular San Juan restaurant Cocina Abierta.

Don’t miss dinner in the trendy San Juan neighborhood of Santurce at José Enrique (176 Calle Duffaut; 787-725-3518; dinner for two, $96), the namesake restaurant from Puerto Rico’s most famous chef, or Gallo Negro (1107 Av. Juan Ponce de León; 787-554-5445; dinner for two, $93), an industrial-chic spot where up-and-comer María Mercedes Grubb blends Turkish, Japanese, Catalan, and Korean influences. A more casual meal can be had at Lote 23 (1552-1558 Av. Juan Ponce de León), an outdoor space filled with food stands and two Airstream trailers serving everything from tacos to doughnuts. There’s no better place to end the night than at La Factoría (148 Calle San Sebastián; 787-412-4251; drinks for two, $20), the setting for the popular “Despacito” music video. Drinks such as the Lavender Mule and Spiced Old Fashioned are as smooth as the live salsa beats—and hopefully your dance moves.

Honeymooning in Saint Lucia

Only 27 miles long and 14 miles wide, Saint Lucia offers beautiful scenery at practically every turn: Whether you cozy up in northern Rodney Bay, the southwestern town of Soufrière, or somewhere in between, you’ll have a view of towering mountains plunging dramatically into sky-blue waters.

The island’s golden sands offer quiet pleasures, but to really get to know Saint Lucia, consider hiking Gros Piton, the larger of the twin Piton mountains, a UNESCO World Heritage site. As you traverse steep inclines on a two-hour climb with Real St. Lucia Tours (New Development, Soufrière; 758-486-1561; guided tours, from $50**), you’ll experience one of the first of many challenges in your new life together and be rewarded with summit views of Petit Piton and the neighboring island of Saint Vincent.

You’ll have earned the tasting at The Rum Cave at Marigot Bay Resort and Marina (Marigot Bay Resort and Marina, Marigot Bay; 758-486-1561; tastings, $35), where “rumologist” Andre Thomas guides you through sips of St. Lucia Distillers’ Admiral Rodney, Chairman’s Reserve, 1931, and Bounty rums. Try dinner at Jade Mountain Club (1000 Anse Chastanet Rd., Soufrière; 758-459-4000; dinner for two, $190), which dishes up locally sourced cuisine and unparalleled Piton views.

Or head to Mango Tree Restaurant (Stonefield Villa Resort, Soufrière; 800-420-5731; dinner for two, $89), where chef Lwanga Edward reinterprets generations-old recipes (handed down by the owner’s grandmother Mama Mae) into modern Creole classics such as codfish fritters with cucumber salsa, and grilled dorado with couscous. If you can’t get enough of Mama Mae’s flavors, request a few bottles of her papaya, mango, or banana preserves to go.

The culinary education can continue on a food-market tour and cooking class with a chef from Cap Maison (Smugglers Cove Dr., Gros Islet; 888-765-4985; tours, $210 a couple), in northern Saint Lucia. You’ll forage for ingredients in the rain forest, tour plantations, and visit a local market in the capital of Castries before ending at the fish market in Gros Islet. If you’re there on Friday night, you can take part in a weekly party that the colorful fishing town calls a “jump-up.” Watch as the streets fill with small barbecue stands grilling zest chicken, spiny lobster, and bwigo (a type of sea snail). As the sun sets, grab a Piton beer and dance in the streets to DJ’ed tracks well into the wee hours.

Celebrating an Anniversary in Saint-Martin/Sint Maarten

Those seeking to recall the enthusiasm of young romance should look no further than the island of Saint Martin, on which you’ll find two bordering territories: Saint-Martin (French, to the north) and Sint Maarten (Dutch, to the south). The European vibe sets in as soon as you land at Princess Juliana International Airport (which, worth noting, is still in hurricane-recovery mode). There are no border crossings, so it may be hard to tell where the Dutch side ends and the French side begins, but no matter: The island is ringed by powder-soft white-sand beaches, including Grand Case, Orient Bay, Simpson Bay, Mullet Bay, and Friar’s Bay.

Idyllic mornings start at La Sucriere (130 Welfare Rd.; 721-544-3549; pastries for two, $5), a Cole Bay café that serves classic French-press coffee and a selection of breads, brioches, and baked sweets. Or unleash your inner child with an indulgent (and Insta-worthy) gelato at Carousel Gelateria (60A Welfare Rd., Cole Bay; 721-544-3112), which has an indoor carousel.

Those in the market for souvenirs can learn about Caribbean impressionism at Roland Richardson Gallery (6 Rue de la Republique, Marigot; 011-590-590-87-32-24), where the namesake painter’s landscapes and still lifes are on view.

For an authentic taste of the sultry French Riviera, you could make the 30-minute drive northeast to the clothing-optional southern tip of Orient Bay. Or take the ferry to nearby Pinel Island, where calm Caribbean waters front pristine beaches. Plan to stay for a swim and lunch at Le Karibuni (Pinel Island; 590-69-064-3858; lunch for two, $49), which serves local mahi-mahi, tuna, and lobster—all of which pair with Provençal rosé.

If you’ve still got wind in your sails after returning to the mainland, try dinner at Bistrot Caraïbes (81 Blvd. de Grand Case, Grand Case; 590-59-029-0829; dinner for two, $70). Brothers Thibault and Amaury Mezière serve French classics (foie gras, escargot cassolette, duck breast) with house-blended rum in an open-air dining room on Grand Case.

Before you depart, consider packing your suitcases a few hours early and heading to Maho Beach, adjacent to the airport. At Sunset Beach Bar (2 Beacon Hill Rd., Simpson Bay; 721-545-2084; drinks for two, $19), you can watch planes fly directly overhead as you sip Caribbean Breeze cocktails and catch a few final rays.

*Estimated meal prices do not include drinks, tax or tip.

**Prices have been converted to U.S. dollars.

NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before planning your trip

Published: Endless Vacation® magazine, Winter 2018